“I’ve been known to collect sausage. I buy it, I put it in the freezer and I’m so pleased that I found it, I don’t eat it. Or I panic and buy it in enormously large quantities on the off chance that I might run out. That’s why I once bolted through Times Square carrying 7 pounds of chorizo, plus a pound of good Spanish cheese and two brand-new bento boxes for my daughters. And maybe some cupcakes. You never know when you’ll run across that good Spanish sausage again.
I thought nothing was as good as the Ibérico ham of Spain. Made from free-range, acorn-eating pigs, the jamón is slowly cured for two to four years. It was a banner day when the United States finally lifted its importation ban. Our family had eaten it everywhere we went when we were in Spain. Along with bread and ice cream, jamón was all that stood between my youngest daughter and starvation.
Yet a tall, handsome Italian has since changed my mind. Not through charm, though he has plenty of it, but because when it comes to charcuterie, he’s a rock star — or soon to become one. Olivierio (Olli) Colmignoli, co-owner and founder of the Mechanicsville-based Olli Salumeria, makes the best cured hams and salumi I’ve ever tasted. He also introduced me to something I had never heard of. And that ham blew my mind. Speck is a cured ham made in northern Italy, similar to prosciutto, but subtly fragrant, not too salty and with just enough smoke. The fat — and there’s quite a bit of it — is meltingly rich and intrinsic to the experience. It’s the pork itself that shines, though, with that deep richness that only a heritage breed provides.”
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